Earlier this year I spent a day at Anstey's Cove trying 'La Crème Direct' ("hard F8a") and left having done my first trad route which was 'Cream Topping' (E6 6a). Then I came very close (probably too close too get and not do) to 'Bristol Weeds' (F8a+) at Cheddar Gorge and now I'm trying to do 'Ken's Problem' (V12).
|Entering the roof|
Photo by Hannah Clay
I was the first of the equal three to go first, feeling rather tired and hungry I started up the route and before I knew it I was midway up the route and at an okay two finger pocket rest. Feeling super pumped I entered the roof section and managed to pull through to a big hold where I wasn't able to get anything back to go for the final section so I just went for it with a bit of grunting, I dropped the knee, hit the sloper, got a really high heel, hit the crimp then another poor sloper, pulled back to go again for the final hold and then by pulling back I didn't have enough to go again for the final jug! I went for it and I was out of there! Feeling very annoyed with myself I anxiously waited for the next competitors to get on route. Around 20/30 minutes later I found out that I reached the furthest point on the route and I had won. The Dartrock Team members climbed really well and fellow team member Tom Wright won second place.
Sunday 17th I had a few attempts on 'Bristol Weeds' (F8a+) where I came very close but as we arrived at the Remnant quite late so I ran out of time and it got dark. Monday 18th and I had a rest day where I played on some slabs at Anstey's Cove where I did an awesome groove into overhang called 'Cocytus more Steam Connection' (F7a).
Tuesday 19th and I was back at Anstey's to try 'Ken's Problem' (V12). I arrived at the problem not knowing what to really expect and at the start of the session I couldn't manage one move, then slowly I learnt more and more moves and now I am falling from what I believe is the last hard move. I am returning tomorrow (Thursday 21st) to have try and finish it off.
Thank you for reading,